I have loved my lovely logo by Kelly Spencer that came with me from the very beginning in 2019, but with no really cohesive design elements across all the products, I felt it was time for a refresh.
I wanted a functional, friendly aesthetic that felt approachable, modern and fun, and I think Becky nailed it. She may also be a mind reader because I always had a bright red logo in mind (genius)
As the last few years have unfolded, so too has our understanding of the climate emergency we now collectively face. Late last year, listening to the news, I started thinking about the ways in which I was contributing to this crisis. How could I create a truly sustainable bar of soap, one that went further than just plastic free packaging?
So I've developed a new soap recipe that is 100% locally sourced oils from NZ and the Pacific, vs my old recipe which is 100% oils sourced overseas. As I learnt more and adapted to the crisis unfolding around me, I decided that a flexible approach and more locally sourced ingredients felt right for my business. My soap is now about as sustainable as I can ever hope it to be. And that means it's not plant based any more.
Only the best ingredients
I've always tried to be very careful selecting ingredients for Oh Goodness products. My vision has always been to use ingredients good for both bodies and the planet. I've never used palm oil because of the environmental concerns surrounding its use, and I’ve made a few tweaks as I've gone along, such as swapping out almond oil in favour of apricot kernel.
When I began learning soapmaking, the recipes around the internet were mostly plant based, and when I began formulating my own, I created plant based recipes too, making sure the ingredients were fair trade, and ethically sourced. Definitely no palm oil!
History of soapmaking
To understand the ingredients soapmakers choose, it’s first necessary to understand a little about the history of soap. Soap, technically, is a salt of a fatty acid and we use this in a variety of cleansing and lubricating products. The kind of soap I make is known as toilet soap. To make it, we combine oils (triglycerides) and lye together in a process called saponification. Its history spans back to Babylonian times, around 2800 BC when a crude slurry of fats and ashes created cleansing properties. Though its accuracy is debatable, the name soap comes from an ancient Roman legend about Mount Sapo (which does't actually exist, by why let truth stand in the way of a good story!), when the animal fat used for sacrifice atop the mountain washed down the river, mixing with the ash from the fires forming cleansing parts in the river.
Throughout the centuries, soap has been made in one form or another using any type of fat available, and mostly people used what they had readily and plentifully available. The Italians, for example, had lots of olive oil so they created the first Castille soaps, made with 100% olive oil. Animal farmers used tallow, lard, or other rendered fats they had to hand.
Detergents were created in the early 20th century as the world wars saw shortages in fats both animal and vegetable so synthetic surfactants were invented to replace traditional soap making methods. Many of the "soaps" you buy at a supermarket are actually detergents. A resurgence of interest in “natural” soapmaking in recent times has seen a return to crafting a more traditional product, using lye, albeit a very sophisticated version of the original.
Soapmaking in today’s global world
As the availability of ingredients globally has increased and the desire for particular attributes has grown, makers have turned to a wider variety of oils all bringing different benefits to the finished product. Coconut oil is widely used for its unique bubble making abilities, but it is highly cleansing, meaning it can dry the skin. Other oils, such as avocado, sunflower and olive provide more moisturising properties. Castor oil can bring stability to the lather. Hardness comes from oils and butters which are harder at room temperature and contain more saturated fat. And so on. And thus a soapmaker will build a recipe based on cost, availability and their own preference. Palm oil is widely used to build a vegetable based bar as it’s cheap and hardens nicely. But what with its dubious environmental track record, I was reluctant to use it, so I turned to formulations with cocoa and shea butter for hardening (I use both in my vegetable recipe).
Plant based…but is it sustainable?
But what about the carbon footprint of such a bar? Even without the ethical concerns of cocoa butter on the humans who grow and harvest it, both these butters have to be shipped from far away around the world. No two ways about it, the carbon footprint is pretty big.
My recipe just wasn’t measuring up.
So I wondered, how could I achieve sustainability in a New Zealand context? New Zealand is blessed with an abundance of oils, couldn't I source my ingredients closer to home? Castile bars (100% olive) are lovely, with a beautiful creamy lather and produce a reasonably hard, durable bar. But it has to cure for a minimum of twelve months in order to attain the correct properties of lather and lose the gooeyness it otherwise has in an under-cured state. A “regular” bar of soap needs only 4-6 weeks to cure, which is much more manageable in terms of order and supply. Castile is also something of an acquired taste, and some of its properties make it hard to design with.
Soy wax was another option to consider and does make lovely hard creamy soap, but on further investigation soy farming has almost as dubious a history as palm oil. Further, It would always come from overseas, and mostly be genetically modified.
An upcycled byproduct
I started investigating animal fats in 2022. Soap makers I was in touch with in forums from all over the globe raved about their tallow and lard soaps. Tallow (the rendered and purified fat from beef trimmings) has been used for centuries for soap and candle making as well as many other things you probably wouldn't even think of. It is a byproduct in plentiful supply in New Zealand thanks to our cattle farming industry. Though it’s true that there are environmental concerns surrounding the production of meat and it comes with its own carbon footprint, tallow is a byproduct of this industry, a waste product if you consider the animal is killed for its meat, not its fat. Why not upcycle this into another product and make the best possible use of this animal? That made sense to me.
So I started experimenting. And it was a real eye opener. I could produce a beautiful, creamy bar of soap with a fine lather that didn’t turn to mush in the shower. It has a neutral smell, as saponification is an intensely reactive process that dramatically neutralises the smell of the original ingredients, so they’re often unrecognisable in their original form. The high saturated fat content of tallow moisturises beautifully and maintains a hardness you just can’t achieve without palm oil or cocoa butter in a vegetable bar.
What about the other ingredients?
So that was the hardening part of my bar sorted, but what about the rest? I love sunflower oil in soap, so I figured if I could find a NZ supplier then I would be able to up the ante on the NZ sourced component. I was very happy to discover the Good Oil company not only provides rapeseed, but also a beautiful, fresh, cold pressed sunflower oil grown in Canterbury.
Avocado is another favourite, in plentiful supply in NZ, however it’s pricey. I have managed to source a wholesale supply of refined avocado oil at a more reasonable price via the Avocado Grove in the Bay of Plenty.
Olive oil, though grown plentifully in NZ, tends to be of the boutique variety and most soapmakers go for a cheaper oil from overseas (those miles again) or use pomace oil (solvent extracted from the pulp after the first pressing) again coming mainly from overseas. So this was a conundrum; either pay a premium price or put up with the shipping miles. After asking around a few places, I found the Olive Press, a Wairarapa based operation who offer pressing services to olive growers. They could sell me a cheaper grade of oil at a reasonable price, essentially the oil cleared out of the presses at the end of each pressing, which isn't really suitable for eating, but perfect for soap. They also live in Wellington so I collect it periodically by driving across town, and for 45% of the makeup of my bar, has a satisfyingly short distance to travel over the hill to me.
Though coconut oil is absolutely not a NZ based product, it is a fairly crucial addition for bubbles. I source mine from Pure Coco, who source coconut oil ethically and sustainably from our pacific neighbours in Fiji, and who also work with and support communities there.
A sustainable solution for the future
After much soapy experimenting I'm finally happy with my base recipe. It lathers beautifully and has a wonderful creamy texture. I've always had high standards for my products, and these soaps more than measure up.
I try where I can to source essential oils for scent from NZ also - such as lavender oil from a farm in the Wairarapa, however many essential oils are simply not produced here. Clays and other additives are also often from overseas, but again where I can, I'm shopping local, trying to keep those miles down and support other local businesses, celebrating the abundance of our wonderful country.
A non vegetable based bar may be a turn off for some. There could be concerns around using soap containing animal products for vegetarians, or those concerned with animal welfare ( though be assured that NZ has some of the highest animal welfare standards in the world.) I get it, it won’t be for everyone. But working towards more sustainable solutions means, I believe, we have to start thinking more flexibly. For those willing to give it a go, I know you’ll be impressed by this soap. And it comes with some pretty swanky eco credentials too.
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Coined in 1800 by a french chemist, the word hydration from the Greek "hydor" meaning water, is the addition and ultimately absorption of water. An anhydrous product, by contrast, contains no water. This is a purely oil based product which is oilier to the touch.
Because oil and water don't mix naturally we use an emulsifying agent to connect the water to the oil component. Without this, you might end up with a tub of water with some oil floating on top! Often, an emulsifying wax will be used and agitating the oil and water parts together forms a stable cream, such as the Oh Goodness Hand & Body Cream.
Any product containing water will require preservation, as bacteria grow in water. Be wary of "natural" water containing products that do not contain a preservative, as these types of preparations can spoil and grow dangerous bacteria.
A rich, oil based product, such as the Oh Goodness Intense Moisturiser, is what is known as "anhyrous", or "without water". These types of products encompass both creams and liquid oil preparations. Salves and balms (including lip balms) fall into this category, as do many (but not all) body butters. They often contain a wax, or solid butter, and have a correspondingly oily or "greasy" feeling and take longer to absorb into the skin.
Anhydrous preparations are usually preservative free, as the lack of water means they won't grow funky bacteria like a hydrous cream, though sometimes an antioxidant such as Vitamin E is added to extend the life of the oils.
Beware marketing ploys that tell you that an oil based product can "hydrate". These claims make me a little crazy! By definition, they can't hydrate, as they contain no water.
They can, however, moisturise. The definition of moisturise is to "make something less dry", which can be achieved with oils. Moisturisation is all about helping your skin form a barrier preventing irritation and dryness.
Hydration, on the other hand, is the infusion of skin cells with water to improve skin elasticity. A good, hydrous moisturiser will be both hydrating and moisturising, whereas an oil based product can provide moisture, but can't hydrate.
Everyone will have a preference but my own personal opinion is that each of these types of products have their place. As I have aged I've definitely seen the need for a richer product, especially on my face.
I generally shower in the evening, and I use the Oh Goodness Intense moisturiser straight out of the shower on my face, when my skin is cleansed and still a little damp. That way I get all the benefits of the beautiful oils and butters to nourish, as well as locking in some of the water remaining on the skin. The absorption rate is slower than a hydrous moisturising cream, but the richness of the oil layer means I wake with soft, nourished skin.
For hands and body, I much prefer a fast absorbing, non greasy cream such as the Oat & Glycerine hand & body cream. I can combat dryness, moisturise and leave skin soft and supple without that longer absorption time. Plus the skin on my legs is prone to dryness so I need that extra hydration power.
Bear in mind that everyone is unique. What works for me won't work for everyone. My daughter, for example, has very different skin to mine so I encourage her to experiment to find what works for her. And I would say the same to everyone. As with diet, exercise, and indeed all issues relating to personal care, experimentation and doing what is right for you will be key to your success.
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Brr, winter has definitely arrived in Wellington. As I write this rain is beating on the windows and it's freezing cold. This is the time of year I find myself thinking about those less fortunate, living in cold damp homes, unable to afford healthy food or adequate heating. With that in mind I've just added Kaibosh to the list of charities Oh Goodness supports.
Kaibosh is a Wellington based food rescue organisation that collects surplus food from various industry providers and delivers it to community groups supporting people in need. This loop ensures quality surplus food reaches those who are struggling rather than being needlessly discarded, benefiting both the community and the environment.
Oh Goodness has also supported Sustainable Coastlines over the last year, and though the contribution is small at present, but it is my hope that I can continue to grow the business to be able to contribute more over time.
Both Kaibosh and Sustainable Coastlines are supported via the One percent collective, which makes giving super easy. I can't speak highly enough of their platform - they take over all the administration and distribution to the charities on their list, making it easy and streamlined especially when supporting multiple charities which you can do with one payment.
Your ongoing support of Oh Goodness makes all of this possible, of course! So a big thank you to you all for your repeat custom, your reviews and feedback, it all helps entice more people to join the party!
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Next up - the intense moisturiser. I've never really had much of a strict beauty routine, and I've been blessed with good skin, but I have always moisturised my face. As I aged I felt like my skin needed a little something more. Originally this product was me playing with an idea for the salve that didn't have a wax in it, I had a few trials that seemed really rich and lush though not quite the right texture for a salve...so i whacked them on my face to use them up. And how fabulous! The creamy cocoa butter paired with the lavender and smooth shea...wow, it was the most amazing experience! And then I lost the recipe! I wrote it down....somewhere.. but I hadn't yet developed a very good system for capturing my experiments, and after weeks of tearing my hair out and trying to capture the magic again, I finally came up with what you see today. So it's little different to that first prototype, but after the addition of a lot more fabulous oils, including beautiful camellia (used by geishas) and sesame oils (though not roasted so you don't smell like a stir fry! ) and, in the end, a tiny amount of candellila wax (just for body), the intense moisturiser was born. I personally use this every night, and my skin has never been so good. It does take a little getting used to an oil based product, as it's richer than water based, but this recipe does absorb well.
Finally, the hand & body cream. I have always had dry hands, and had been using an Aveeno fragrance free oat cream which I loved. So this product was me trying to recreate that cream, but made from simple, natural ingredients and not plastic wrapped. I found a recipe online which seemed to work fairly well. It was previously unchartered territory for me to make a hydrous (water based) product that would need preservation, but I did a bunch of research and found a preservation system that was ecocert approved, and after a few improvements (mainly adding my favourite shea butter and avocado oil), I decided I loved this cream and it was better than the one I'd been using. My husband needs a good, no nonsense, unscented hand cream and he loves it too. I decided to offer a scented and unscented version as I often just like a plain version myself; it's nice when dealing with larger areas to go unscented too I find. I love the Jasmine, lavender & lemon combo and I would really like to bring this cream out in more scents, and I hope to be able to do that later this year. During lockdown, when hand washing was a focus, this cream was an absolute skin saver. With glycerine, a humectant (basically pulling water into the skin layer), and colloidal oats which soothe skin, I haven't suffered any of the dry and irritated patches I used to suffer on my hands from cleaning and hand washing. I use this product several times a day, every day!
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One of the main components of Litsea Cubeba essential oil is citral, the main component of citrus peel. This makes up roughly over 70% of the phytonutrient content of the oil and along with other natural alcohols and aldehydes give Litsea oil its strong antibacterial and antiseptic qualities.
The smell of this oil is absolutely divine! I'm always partial to a good citrus aroma, but litsea has fair stolen my heart. It's so intensely lemony, almost more lemon than lemon itself, if that's possible, and also a little bit spicy; it has an almost peppery overtone that intensifies the citrus and makes it more punchy. It holds well in soap (citrus essential oils can lose their scent in the cure process) and best of all is grown and produced sustainably.
You'll be seeing this citrus superstar more in Oh Goodness products from now on :)
Ana
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When I first started making and formulating deodorants, I tried a lot of things out, following recipes found online. I didn't have much experience with the ingredients, and almond oil was widely used in do-it-yourself recipes. I was just trying to make things work rather than really thinking through the choices I made. What did I know? If they said almond oil then most probably there was a reason.
My deodorants underwent a bunch of recipe changes. It started out one way then went another, and it evolved in much the same way I like to cook, my husband would say haphazardly...I prefer to call it "freestyle". I tweaked the recipes, added a little of this, a bit more of that, tried different ratios, and eventually added almond oil as a liquid oil to balance the solid coconut oil and shea butters that made it too hard in the winter. In retrospect I used almond because I knew about it, and DIDN'T know much about other potential options..and you go with what you know, right? I have to admit I didn't give it much thought.
Fast forward a year or so, and I've been through a couple of label reprints and even a redesign. I know far more about the wonderful wide world of carrier oils and importantly a LOT more about the effect almond farming is having on the environment. It got me thinking...surely another more eco friendly oil would work too? Yes almond is fantastic in terms of its use in skin applications, but there are so many alternative options with fabulous attributes that are way less wasteful to produce. What is the point of a product that avoids plastic waste but contains an ingredient that is responsible for degradation of the environment another way.
As my knowledge has evolved so too has my desire to build a brand that really thinks through all its resources, ingredients and systems ensuring things are done ethically and sustainably. So now I'm on a mission to change up that dependence on an oil that sucks water, kills bees and wrecks ecosystems.
So i've decided it's time to move to an oil that works just as well (perhaps even better!?) and doesn't wreak havoc with the environment. I sense more freestyling coming up and yes, I will be tweaking those labels this time 😉
]]>Started in Australia in 2011, Plastic Free July has grown into a global phenomenon. The campaign has started reaching even more mainstream audiences and is having a measurable difference on public perception and habits around single use plastic waste. Through pledges and challenges it helps people and businesses become part of the plastic pollution solution.
As many of you know, I started Oh Goodness partly to provide an alternative to plastic wrapped deodorant and skin products. I believe that producers, like me, need to be held accountable for packaging choices. All my deodorants and skin products are contained in glass jars with metal lids and soaps are simply wrapped in paper, paper labels or nude (oo-ee!)
Our new fruit & vege boxes are a plastic free delight to behold!
On a more personal level, I have tried for many years to make swaps for our family that are more sustainable and use fewer plastic wrapped products. These have included a plastic free bathroom setup and some changes to our grocery shop. But the journey to sustainable living is gradual, and there is always room for improvement! Recently, we have started ordering our fruit and veges from a local supplier who provides a plastic free box, so we're cutting back on plastic wrapped fruit from the supermarket, supporting a small local business and gaining fresher produce all at once. We're also now purchasing a large box of Greencane toilet paper, which arrives at our doorstep in a large cardboard box and lasts a long time, and eliminates the plastic wrapping that seems inevitable with smaller, grocery bought paper.
Each week during plastic free July I'll be bringing you a range of great Oh Goodness specials and giveaways in order to raise awareness and get some great plastic free swaps happening.
Stay tuned for some plastic free goodness!
Ana
#plasticfreejuly #plasticfreejulyaotearoa
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This picture was taken the other day at the beach, while on our daily walk. We're so lucky to have the beach nearby, and if this isolation situation teaches us anything, it’s what is important to us. Being near and able to access the sea has been so key for my sanity.
I hear a lot of social chatter at the moment; people struggling, people creating awesome things, people breaking down, people performing heroic acts, people organising the hell out of life, people believing conspiracy theories. It seems the full range of experience is happening to people right now.
I'd say that is true for me too. Over the last few weeks it has been possible for me to have days where I feel like life isn't so different to normal, and others where I feel like I'm breaking and falling into a sink hole of despair and emotion. I've felt like the best parent, and the worst. The most loving wife and the least. Severe distress and extreme elation. Fierce drive and complete inertia. Intense vulnerability and incredible strength.
I’ve also been surprised. I’m used to having a lot of time to myself, as I work alone at home. In grittier times of the month, I fancy myself a badass loner; in need of no-one, able to satisfy and meet all my own needs and to hell with everyone else. I fantasise about life in a small woodland cottage somewhere, alone with perhaps just a pet for company. But this experience has shown me differently. I’m surprised just how comforting I am finding my bubble. I thought it would drive me nuts, having everyone here all the time, and at times, it is. But it’s also cozy, and warm, and comforting knowing everyone is safe and nearby.
I’m also surprised how much I miss people. As a “sociable loner” (thanks Peta Mathias for that insightful categorisation), I sometimes underestimate how much pleasure I derive from interactions with others. I’m often lying on the sofa at 7pm on the night of a party groaning about having to go, regretful I can’t just curl up with a cup of tea and a good movie. But I now realise that, though my party hard instincts may be on the wane, the need for meaningful interaction with people isn’t.
The lockdown has shown us that we are still a social species, even if technology has forced us apart in some ways. We still need each other, not just for practical reasons, but also for our mental health. There is an integral part of being human, and that is connection. When we can’t have it, we suffer.
I’m plagued with a sense of incompletion. I’m still able to work to some degree, and fulfil orders. But my husband and I now share a workspace, and as my job can be noisy and sometimes smelly, it’s difficult to always do what I normally would in there. His job requires concentration so I feel guilty if I'm rattling around, and anyway, someone needs to keep an eye on the smallest person in this house. My wholesale orders have completely dried up of course so I’m not super busy anyway, at least in the practical sense. But that feeling of not doing enough remains.
I thank, from the bottom of my heart, those who have gone out into the world to perform essential services. I cannot imagine what it must be like for some who have to step into the world each day knowing that people depend on them to save lives, at the risk of jeopardising their own families. Worse, being separated from them. I salute you. I also feel the pain of families unable to comfort their loved ones at the end. That must sting something awful.
I'm so so grateful for the superb leadership we have experienced in this country, and that we live in a country where our leaders actually care about the welfare of its people. At times I have glimpsed an alternate reality where food is scarce and the world order is thrown on its head. This terrifies me, yet it’s a reality of life for many in different parts of the world. So for this peaceful, uncorrupted country, I am thankful.
I’m grateful that in my bubble we are healthy, mostly happy, well fed, warm and safe. We still have jobs, and our health. I am so, so very grateful for this. I’m grateful for the support of you all. I hope that you are all surviving, coping, staying safe and staying home.
#lockdown2020 #alertlevel4 #uniteagainstcovid19 #ohgoodnessnz #ohgoodnessthatsbetter
]]>What is eczema?
There are seven different types of eczema, but most commonly people, and especially children, suffer from Atopic eczema (AE). Common symptoms of AE include red, inflamed skin and itching. There may be raised bumps, lesions and scaling (where sections of the skin shear off). One of the most characteristic symptoms is itching, which occurs in 100% of cases involving AE. It's said that if it doesn't itch then it's more likely to be contact dermatitis or another form of eczema.
What causes it?
AE is primarily caused by a breakdown of the skin barrier. Our skin barrier protects us from bacteria, allergens and irritants getting in and stops moisture getting out. People with eczema, for various reasons, have a weakness in the skin barrier. This may in part be hereditary or due to inflammation from external factors. Changes in season (especially cold weather), long hot showers, irritants (such as soap, washing powder or synthetic fabrics), food allergies, dust and other environmental irritants, stress, emotional disturbance and hormonal shifts can all play a part in the development of a dry skin problem and a breakdown of the protective barrier.
For children, a significant trigger for outbreaks can be dietary. You may have noticed that cutting back on a particular type of food or avoiding particular food groups made a difference to your breastfed baby's eczema, and in an older child this may manifest when they begin solids. Commonly dairy, eggs, nuts, wheat, seafood and soy are culprits. You can try taking suspect foods out of the diet then reintroducing them to see if the eczema responds to these changes.
Daily bathing
Keeping the skin clean is important, and a regular skin management routine is important to keep the skin hydrated and manage outbreaks.
Avoid very hot water and harsh soaps, and opt instead for a gentle cleanser. A fragrance free soap with soothing natural oils and a high "superfat" content is a good option. Superfat refers to the amount of oil in the soap not converted to soap via the saponification process, and will help to protect the skin rather than strip all the oils away. Most hand soaps will contain around three to five percent, while dish or laundry soap typically has zero percent. Look for an unscented soap that includes a robust moisturising oil or butter, such as cocoa or shea butter with a superfat value of at least five to ten percent.
The "soak and seal" method is recommended for bathing. Bathe in warm water for at least five minutes, pat the skin dry so it remains slightly moist, and apply generous amounts of moisturiser within minutes of getting out. This helps seal the water into the skin and is the best way to avoid flareups due to dry skin. During flares, a topical treatment should be applied and gloves and / or bandages can be applied to help seal the moisture from the shower and the moisturiser.
Moisturiser
Eczema prone skin is dry because it isn't good at maintaining its water content, not necessarily because it isn't oily enough. Look for fragrance free, low irritant ingredients as many synthetic ingredients can be irritating. Use of a good, hypoallergenic moisturiser is important, even when outbreaks are in remission to help protect the skin. Topical applications of balms and salves are usually only suitable when the outbreaks occur. Moisturising every day is non negotiable for those with the tendency to dryness, so knowing this can go a long way towards helping to maintain skin balance and prevent flares from happening in the first place.
Herbal remedies
Doctors may prescribe steroid creams to manage outbreaks, but if you prefer to take a natural route there are many various plant based solutions that can help eczema sufferers.
Kawakawa - native to NZ, the kawakawa plant has been used for centuries by Maori for treatment of everything from dental pain to digestive issues. Its antimicrobial and analgesic properties make it useful for treating infections, and it can reduce inflammation of various skin conditions eczema and rashes. Typically the leaves will be infused in oil and a salve or balm made from the oil.
Calendula - Commonly known as Marigold, Calendula has been used since ancient times and is known for its powerful healing and soothing properties. The ancient Egyptians believed it to have rejuvenating properties and the ancient Greeks used the colourful petals to decorate their meals. A salve or balm containing the infused oil can be prepared which, applied regularly during flares can help to soothe and heal the irritation.
Colloidal oats - Use in a bath for a soothing soak, or in a cream for gentle topical benefits. Oats have been shown to soothe irritation and help combat the itching associated with skin irritations.
Natural oils
Natural oils are a great place to start when searching for products, most containing antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Here are a few (by all means not all) oils shown to help manage eczema symptoms you may like to keep a lookout for on the ingredients list.
Hemp oil - hemp oil contains cannabidiol (CBD), which has powerful anti-inflammatory properties. It is also high in linoleic acid, which is important in maintaining the skin's moisture barrier.
Shea butter - a dense and nutrient rich moisturiser, shea works to maintain condition and helps regenerate cells in the skin's layers. Rich in antioxidants, allergic reactions to shea are extremely rare making it a great low allergen option.
Jojoba oil - famous in the natural skincare world as the oil that most closely resembles the skins natural sebum, jojoba has been shown to help protect the skin barrier. It also possesses excellent anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and skin healing properties.
Coconut oil - rich in various fatty acids and its antimicrobial and antifungal properties help to combat any possible infection as a result of the skin barrier weakness.
The takeaway
Maintenance of the skin is the most important part of managing AE, as it is easier to prevent rather than heal a flareup, so establish and maintain a daily cleansing and moisturising ritual.
Regular moisturising is key, so find a good, fragrance free low-allergen option that suits you and use it daily. As with all skin products, you may have to shop around before you find your perfect match and what works for some won't for others.
Keep a lookout for products recommended for eczema which contain natural ingredients, healing properties and avoid harsh synthetic fragrances. There are lots of natural healing products available to help manage flare ups.
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I recently had to stop myself reading the reports because l became paralysed by fear and helplessness. From raging bushfires to depletion of natural resources it all felt so out of control and mankind's descent into a melting, burning depleted hell inevitable. WAHHH..
So I sat down and wrote this blog. Because there are things we can do, and from small individual changes come bigger shifts in the behaviour of the general population. What follows is the plan I came up with to help me maintain some sort of sanity around these issues, so read on for a few actionable changes to stay feeling in control.
Shop consciously
Shop wisely. Do the research. Spend your dollar with companies who aren't plundering the planet and who offer environmentally supportive, regenerative policies. Companies who offer sustainable and recyclable packaging, good supply chain conditions and fair trade resources. They are out there, you just have to find them.
Shop less
Do I really need that new widget that promises eternal happiness? Probably not. A lot of the urgent messages we are exposed to from retailers are marketing, pure and simple. I've recently spent a (very cathartic) morning unsubscribing from the hundred or so newsletters I have signed up for over the last few years who mail me offering 'amazing deals'. Like decluttering my house, this had the effect of making me feel cleansed, happier, lighter, and freer. I don't need the temptation.
Support Local
I know I talk about this quite a lot, and it might seem that i have a vested interest in this....and you'd be right, as I'm a small local business. But it's bigger than me. There are so many awesome small businesses out there creating healthy, natural products that are better for you and the environment. Support them. Mostly they are more ethical than a large corporation and are sending a percentage of profits to charities and organisations who in turn support the preservation of the planet. Capitalism can be awesome if we put the money in the right places.
Educate
Educate your kids (don't scare them!) Teach them that the world is full of natural and wonderful things and it is our responsibility as guests on this planet that we be respectful and thoughtful with our time here. Teach them that yes, species extinction happens, but there are folks working tirelessly to ensure they can save what is humanly possible to save. Teach them about capitalism and mass marketing and why it's important to support ethical, local companies and not simply buy junk from the $2 shop because its cheap. Tell them about sweatshops and the fact that if they only have to pay $3 for a tee shirt then somewhere along the supply chain someone suffered for that. Introduce them to op shops. The younger generations have a fantastic environmental conscience already. Nurture that.
Be a responsible human
Think about the way you live. Are there changes you can make to become more sustainable? It's easy to become overwhelmed when thinking about this stuff, but start small - adding more simple changes gradually will add up over time. Don't aim for perfection, just aim to be better, gradually. I learnt this the hard way - I used to spend a lot of time thinking and berating myself for all the things I wasn't doing before I realised I should instead focus on the things I was, and making small changes that would keep me moving in the right direction. If everyone starts making small changes it can drive new directions for society, and producers and lawmakers will respond, so don't underestimate the power you have.
Vote wisely
The people we ask to represent us have a huge impact on the way we live. Don't underestimate how important this is. Vote - in general, but also local body elections, as it all counts. Vote for people who are future proofing policies and looking at the world from an ethical, respectful point of view and who aren't simply looking to ringfence profits for big business.
Eat your veges
Eat less meat and more locally grown in-season vegetables. While I'm not suggesting everybody needs to be vegan, there is no getting around the fact that raising meat uses up a huge amount of water and resources and is highly pollutant. There are simply too many people on planet earth for everyone to have a meat meal every night. Period. Eating more veg is better for you anyway, so it's a win-win. And strawberries in June? Forget about it! They taste better in season and it keeps them special.
Don't be afraid
Embrace change. How we live now is unsustainable, and the future, I suspect, will look very different. For the sake of humanity, and your sanity, figure that you can and will have the capacity to make a difference to how our future looks.
]]>I'm sometimes asked how to achieve healthy, clear skin. I believe it's easy if you follow a few simple guidelines. Anyone who knows me knows I like simple, especially when it comes to skincare!
Here's a quick guide to maintaining great skin.
Cleansing
We live in a polluted world. Modern life means exposure to pollutants is inevitable, especially if you live in a city. Make sure you find a cleansing routine that suits you and do it every night before bed. Oh Goodness charcoal & kaolin clay face soap is an excellent option. This soap is formulated to attract toxins and pollutants, providing an antioxidant boost and refining the pores also meaning there is no need for a separate toning regime.
Protection
Slip, slop, slap, wear a hat. Sun protection is an essential tool for healthy skin. In this part of the world especially, as we all know, the sun is fierce! Sunscreen is non negotiable for healthy skin, and not just in summer, but year round.
Nourishment
Great skin starts from within. That's right folks, eat your veges, because what goes in shows up on your skin. If you're pounding processed foods and sugary crap you're going to see that on your face. You are what you eat, as they say, and if you'd rather look like a pile of fresh, healthy vegetables than greasy chips, then you gotta eat them greens. Drinks like water and herbal tea are also great for the skin, and avoid too many caffeinated drinks and too much alcohol. Note that I said "too many" and "too much", because moderate intake of such enjoyable things shouldn't be forbidden entirely ;)
Avoid too many toxic products
Try and ensure all the products you use are as natural as possible. This includes makeup. There are several great makeup brands out there offering natural alternatives to conventional cosmetics, so shop around. You can avoid a world of crap polluting your skin by choosing wisely.
Choose natural skincare
This one goes without saying. If you look at a list of ingredients on the back of most commercial skincare preparations you'll notice a looong list of chemicals. Avoid. You can achieve great results with a great natural product. Oh Goodness intense moisturiser is a great option, jam packed with nourishing antioxidant rich organic oils and butters, perfect for intense skin nourishment.
And that's it! Were you expecting a longer list of dos and don'ts?? #keepitsimple
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Each year I take a deep breath and try and rise above the noise, and this year in particular I'm making a more conscious effort to make ethical choices. You've probably all seen some ethical gifting guides floating around social media and I love these...what is boils down to is:
Once you start embracing these principles I find that everything seems so much easier and the path to the 25th way more straightforward. It's so great that ethical gifting seems to be becoming a mainstream phenomenon. Here's to a happy, ethical Christmas without the guilt!
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It’s also an opportunity. An opportunity to display the change you wish to see in the world and set an example you hope others will follow.
A big part of starting Oh Goodness was to combat the growing amount of plastic waste gathering in our environments. So it makes sense that the company should also support initiatives that help address this problem.
To that end Oh Goodness has been supporting The Ocean Cleanup project who are attempting large scale ocean plastic cleanup. Closer to home, I've recently signed up to the One percent Collective, which helps organisations contribute and manage their charitable donations. My chosen charity (so far) is the Sustainable Coastlines initiative, who support the health of coastlines and waterways in NZ.
Oh Goodness' level of involvement is small at this stage. But as the company grows, so too will the contributions, and the diversity of chosen charities. We all have to start somewhere, and this is where I have chosen to begin our journey. One of the many, many decisions I have made over the past year, and one of the easiest to make.
#ohgoodnessthatsbetter
Fast forward nearly a year and I have come so far....a redesign of the labels, several stockists, the launch of new deodorant fragrances and a modest new skincare range which launched recently. I've learnt so much, met some fantastic people and gained a new appreciation for all the great work happening in the natural / eco / green living and clean skincare space.
I've had such generous support from friends and supporters all through this year, and I'd like to take the chance to say thanks, from the bottom of my heart, to everyone who has helped me on this journey. My family, of course, deserves special mention and especially Otto, my brilliant husband, who has counselled me through some low moments and put up with my addiction to YouTube how-to skincare videos!
Last night I hosted a small event at my home, to a small but perfectly appreciative group of women, some friends, some I met for the first time. We discussed the pros and cons of deodorants, skincare routines, ingredients and favourite smells. I gained some insight and inspiration for new products. This is what it's all about, at the end of the day, to share skincare that is natural and good and isn't wrapped in plastic. So thank you - all of you - for helping me make what Oh Goodness has become. I am so inspired for the future.
xx Ana
Two of the lovely men in my life, who also wanted to get in on the photo action..:)
]]>Shea butter from the shea tree Vitellaria paradoxa (formerly Butyrospermum parkii) is one of my favourite ingredients. If you've looked at the Oh Goodness range you'll notice that it appears in most products, and I simply love it in soap as it produces a lovely creamy bar. Sticky and faintly scented, it's lovely in its raw form (if you don't mind the sticky). It's a humectant, meaning it helps keep skin moist, and packs real power in its moisturising and skin nourishing properties.
I used to get a type of dermatitis on my hands with some regularity. I'm a mother of three, I'm always wiping something or cleaning up a spill or cooking and now making skincare and my hands get wet. Like, a lot. I used to clean using commercial cleaners (before I started making my own) and never wore gloves...and I have suffered infections on my hands due to dermatitis becoming infected. But since I've been using shea based products (and natural cleaners!) the dry spots are few and far between and I feel like my skin is much stronger and healthier, despite the beating it takes from my lifestyle.
I started noticing how amazing shea butter is when I began making natural deodorant. I would realise that my hands were greatly improved when I'd make a batch and get a little on my hand while measuring it out. Rub it in and it's sticky, but it absorbs rapidly and provides a temporary waterproof coating. Give it time and the next time you look at that skin it's different. In my case, the flakiness is reduced and the skin is healthier and plumper. It's actually a little like those magic marker boards that kids use...the ones that you pull the wiper across and it erases what you've done. Actually that fast. Incredible.
Shea butter is a fat extracted from the nut of the african shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa). It melts at body temperature, which is why it's so good for skincare preparations though in Africa it's also eaten. It's used in a variety of different ways from cooking oil to candle making to cosmetics and ointments. It's choc full of fatty acids : oleic, stearic, linoleic, palmitic, linolenic and arachidic acids, all of which have awesome moisturising properties for skin.
Shea can be a tricky beast; temperature is important when working with natural butters as all those amazing fatty acids have a corresponding melt and reset temperature, so how you deal with it matters. Handle it incorrectly and you can be left with a grainy product, meaning a smooth, oil based cream can suddenly feel like it contains grains of sand. Not ideal, obviously. I learnt this the hard way, when a batch of cream I was working on (and a different batch of shea to the prototype) suddenly started turning on me and producing something closer to an exfoliant. Luckily, it's also easily fixed once you know how - heating it above the melt point of the various fatty acids and then cooling rapidly before the crystals have time to form will ensure smoothness.
I'm always interested in where and how ingredients are sourced, and the conditions of workers involved. For the most part, shea is grown organically and originates in West Africa where it is harvested by rural women, to whom it provides economic sustenance. The west's increased interest in shea butter as a cosmetic ingredient over the last decade or so has seen huge growth in the industry. With the help of various local union groups there have been direct and positive returns for workers.
So that's shea, in a nutshell (pardon the pun).. I love it, and will continue to work with it for the benefit of skins everywhere.
Check out our new Intense moisturiser, which has a shea butter base:
https://ohgoodness.nz/collections/skincare/products/intense-moisturiser
For more information, check out this excellent page
https://www.saje.com/ingredient-garden-shea.html
For more on the West African shea butter trade
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shea_nut_and_butter_production_in_Burkina_Faso
#ohgoodnessthatsbetter
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I'd love to say that i made a conscious decision to delve into natural deodorant..but it was, simply put, a very happy accident.
I'd started out trying to make natural sunscreen. It's hard. REALLY hard. Zinc oxide is a real pig of an ingredient to work with, clumping and not mixing through the other ingredients. I turned out quite a few messes; too hard, too runny, and all making a HUGE mess with incredibly difficult cleanup.
It also turns out it's quite difficult to get a high enough SPF if you're making it at home. In my bid to understand it, I read the blog of a woman who charted her journey to make sunscreen, her struggles, the costs involved to get proper lab testing done, how hard it all was and how we should all BE VERY CAREFUL with homemade stuff as it is a product that people rely on to protect them from skin cancer.
I'd tried, and failed; my husband was still getting burnt. Considering even big name brands often fail the rigorous SPF tests i figured I didn't have a hope.
But I still had all these lovely, organic ingredients....coconut oil, shea butter. What to do? I started trawling the internet to see if there was something else I could make. Deodorant! I was sceptical at first but had nothing to lose and I needed some so I gave it a whirl. Turns out it worked great. So great, I gave some to my mum and sister for Christmas. I thought they'd hate it, dismiss natural deodorant as some sort of tree hugging nonsense.
They LOVED it. RAVED about it. And asked me why I wasn't selling it.
So I gave it some thought and did some research. I gave some to friends to trial. Everyone raved about it, most asked for refills. I played around with the formulation to make it more temperature stable. And I got hooked...I found myself whipping up a batch of face oil, some cuticle cream for a friend, nose balm when I had a cold. I loved the idea of selling products that are natural and good and work well and aren't wrapped in plastic. And Oh Goodness was born.
So why use Oh Goodness natural deodorant? Aside from the obvious benefits of fewer chemicals, no aluminium or preservatives, why not? It works a treat. It smells great. It comes in a glass jar, with a metal lid. Say no more.
#ohgoodnessthatsbetter
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